The old pub tiles are still on the outside but The Abercrombie has had a serious overhaul. Taken over by the folks behind Flinders andNorfolk, it now feels modern with a retro – almost Happy Days meets The Brady Bunch – vibe.

Fifties rock and roll is playing, while the décor reflects a range of time periods – think tartan carpet, 70s-style green and yellow fabric banquettes, kitschy beer trays on the wall, a bookshelf (an increasingly common sight in Sydney bars, though the shelves are only filled with old encyclopedias and other tat), and metal lightshades.

Part of me thinks they’re trying a little hard – but the other part loves the music, the stools around the middle bar, and the metal cage high above the bar counter that holds liquor bottles.

Another big change is that there are now a lot of wooden tables for groups and couples to sit at. The food here ranges from $5.50 tacos to $17 burgers and US style sandwiches such as the double cheeseburger and Philly cheesesteak (which I plan on trying next time I’m here) as well as $17 nachos with lamb brisket.

The cocktails here are aimed at the uni crowd – offerings include the Cameltoe, Lagerita and Berroca colada – and so I order a beer instead while waiting for a surly friend who works as a nude model to arrive. I realise her occupation adds nothing to this review, but I wanted to mention it anyway. When the surly nude model finally enters she sneers at the suggestion of a Cameltoe, orders a beer and insists on eating food.

The tacos are good enough to make up for the cocktail list – we try the chorizo, red cabbage and queso fresco taco with jalapeno sauce as well as the chipotle chicken with capsicum, blackbean relish, fresco and tomatillo salsa taco and they’re both great. I also like their tequila selection behind the bar, which includes Don Julio, and that they serve sangrita shots. The deep-fried Golden Gaytime ($7) on the menu also intrigues.

For the most part I’m impressed with the Abercrombie, despite my hatred of the cocktail menu and the TVs showing footy (although in their defence, at least the sound is muted). The service is friendly, the atmosphere casual, and the food is great. Even the nude model seems a little less surly by the time we leave.

The Abercrombie, corner of Abercrombie Street and Broadway, opposite UTS. Open every day until late.